Interior House Painter Jobs Near Me

Interior House Painter Jobs Near Me – You could say to find Mauro’s painting, not the other way around. Recently arrived from his native Brazil, he was working on a construction crew hoping to become a carpenter when the painter didn’t show up. “My boss looked at me and said, ‘Can you paint?'” he says. I said, “I can try,” and he took the brush. “I realized that I really liked the work.”

Eighty-five percent of any painting project is preparation. Hole filling, sanding, caulking, and other prep work takes time, but it’s necessary for a good paint job. If you start at a ready level, with a little practice you can beat the next 15%. – Mauro Henrique, TOH Painter

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After finishing work, he began practicing at home – “on walls, inside wardrobes, windows, trim, everywhere” – and studying his new art. “My father taught me to be detail-oriented,” Mauro says of his hands-on father. This diligence paid off: he got more work and eventually opened his own business.

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Then one day he found himself painting at the house of Russ Morash, the old developer and builder of this old house – although he didn’t know who “Russ” was. Impressed with his work, Morash offered the young artist a role at Newton Project House. An Ask TOH segment followed and eventually earned Mauro an official spot on the TOH team.

We met him on a recent job painting a colorful children’s room in Somerville, MA. Take a look at the steps she takes to create a high-end interior color—and you can, too.

TOH Pro Tip: Don’t cover the gaps too much. Cutting off the tip of the pipe too much will cause the joints to misalign. Measure the distance and use a caulking tube marked with lines that indicate where to cut based on the size of the gap. Or start small, near the end, and adjust as needed.

For example, if you are re-covering walls and trim that are in good condition and have already been covered in a similar shade and composition, this is not always necessary. However, with new drywall and fresh plaster, a primer is essential to seal the surface. And if you’re applying a light color over a dark color, the previous color is damaged or worn, or you’re covering a porous or smooth surface, using the right primer will ensure optimal coverage.

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TOH PRO TIP: “Always buy the highest quality paint. It costs a little more per gallon, but it applies better, looks better and gives you a more durable look. It will last longer.”

Mauro says it’s important to follow a logical order for any color project. “It saves time and protects your work – you won’t have brushes or drips on wet surfaces, so you don’t have to redo them.” General approach: Work from the top down.

1. Start with the ceiling. First, use an angled sash brush to cut a 1 1/2- to 2 1/2-inch-wide strip along the perimeter (see “Technique Principles,” opposite), then use a roller on the extension pole to cover Use Wide Do two coats. “If you miss drips, splatters, or errant brush marks on walls or trim, you can fix them as you go,” says Mauro.

2. Then paint the trim, windows and doors. Tackle the crown molding first, then the windows and their casings, and then the doors and their casings. If you have enough space, get another workplace door that you can extend. Paint them while the rest of the room dries. Finish by painting any wall coverings or other decorations.

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3. Cut and wrap the walls. When there are not many details, you can paint the walls. If the line is uneven, this is an opportunity to create a clear border with previously painted surfaces.

4. Finish painting the baseboards. Since you’re working with gravity, you can now clean up any paint drips you didn’t clean up. Start by cutting along the top of the form, then work your way down towards the floor.

A comfortable handle allows you to control the flow of paint. Start by holding the brush like a pencil, with your index finger touching the narrow edge, your thumb on one side and the remaining three fingers on the other. “But depending on what you’re doing, it’s important to adjust your grip as you go,” says Mauro. “It helps fight hand fatigue.”

Never dip a brush into a can of paint. “If you get any debris or dust inside, you run the risk of contaminating the whole can,” says Mauro. Always pour paint into a small paint bucket. Fill halfway. “To set the brush, dip the bristles two fingers’ width into the paint,” he says. “It prevents drips and also eliminates the need to clean the entire brush when you’re done, which saves time.” Tap it gently on the side of the bucket to swirl the dye onto the hair and wipe off the excess.

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When painting a room, you want to start where two surfaces meet that cannot be reached with a roller: where the wall meets the ceiling, where one wall meets the other, and where the decorations and cornice boards extend. These areas require a special brush sequence called cutting.

Starting position: Starting at one corner, position the bristles of the brush about 1/2 inch below and roughly parallel to the adjacent wall surface. Gently push them to that edge.

First stroke: Angle the front edge of the brush slightly away from the edge of the adjacent surface as you brush in one smooth motion, about 12-14 inches. Apply light pressure first and increase the pressure slightly towards the end of the stroke, pulling the brush slightly down and away from the cutting edge. direction

Second stroke: Place the brush 12-14 inches away from the first stroke and repeat the above steps in the opposite direction. Continue across the wall, always placing the brush on top of the drywall and applying the fresh paint left over from the previous coat until you reach the next corner.

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Fill the paint tray reservoir under the edges. Dip a roller cap into it, then spread the paint evenly by wrapping the cap over the bumps. “If the roller is covered with paint, that’s enough for you,” says Mauro. – He shouldn’t be dripping.

Starting from the top, at the edge of the cut, place the roller against the wall. Apply paint in a W or N pattern, filling the gaps, covering the previous line by 30-40%. Do not press too hard or try to get the paint all the way out. This can cause bumps. Focus on applying a smooth, even coating and work in an area of ​​3-4 square feet.

Once you’ve covered the wall, run a lightly loaded roller around the perimeter to blend the texture of the brush strokes you made during the cut.

Allow the walls to dry for about 1 1/2 hours, then repeat the cutting and rolling sequence to cover the entire second coat.

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TOH Pro Tip: Make a disposable colored tray liner with aluminum foil. Buy a roll that covers the entire width of the tray, the sides and around the edges. Press the foil sheet carefully so that it meets the lines of the tray and does not shift. When you’re done, you can peel and throw away.

Flat: The lowest lightness, meaning the color absorbs available light. “It’s ideal for off-traffic areas like roofs and hides surface imperfections.”

Matte: A slightly reflective sheen that is a bit more durable and hides minor imperfections. Although not as washable as glossier paints, it is better to repair if the painted surface is later scratched. Perfect for low to medium traffic areas such as bedrooms.

Eggshell: A soft and velvety sheen with a bit more sheen than matte, more stain resistant and easier to wash. “It is suitable for medium to high traffic areas such as kitchens, bathrooms and hallways where durability is essential.

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Satin: more shiny, looks like a pearl. Easy to clean, so it is suitable for cabinets.

High Shine: Great shine with a glassy sheen. Mauro uses it to bring life to entrance doors, walls or ceilings.

Sometimes painter’s tape just isn’t right: maybe the siding is too close to an inside corner, or you’re painting the outside edge of a window sash. Mauro then uses a wide putty or strip knife as a guide. It’s like this:

TOH Pro Tip: “The gloss you choose can have a huge impact on the final product, both in terms of appearance and wear. Be sure to consider the condition of your walls or decorations and the amount of traffic they will face. – Mauro Henrique

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It’s a common dilemma: You need to

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